Ingredients:
Madeira cake
Jam of your choice
4 Tablespoon sherry
<Custard>
300ml milk
28g sugar
14g custard powder
1tsp vanilla extract
<Whipped Cream>
300ml double cream
30g sugar
<Decoration>
Almond slices
Some cherries
スポンジケーキ
お好きなジャム
シェリー 大さじ４
＜カスタード＞
牛乳 300ml
砂糖 28g
カスタードパウダー 14g
バニラエッセンス 小さじ１
＜クリーム＞
ホイップクリーム 300ml
砂糖 30g
＜飾り付け＞
アーモンドスライス
さくらんぼ
Instructions:
1. Slice enough madeira cake to cover the bottom of a trifle bowl and again the same amount.
2. Spread jam thickly on half the cake pieces and make jam sandwich. Place them in the bowl.
3. Add 4 tablespoon of sherry. Make sure all the cake pieces are moist. Leave the cake to soak up the liquid.
4. Make custard. Place custard powder in a pan, add milk, and slowly stir till boiling. Add sugar and vanilla extract. Boil for 1 or 2 minutes in low heat. Remove from the heat and allow it to cool to room temperature.
5. When the custard is cooled, pour it over the cake. Let the custard cool completely.
6. When the custard is cold, mix cream and sugar in a bowl and whip up the cream.
7. Pipe the whipped cream on the custard.
8. Place cherries on top with almond slices.
1. スポンジケーキを、大きめのガラスのボウルの底に敷き詰める程スライスし、同じ量をまたスライスする。
2. 半数にジャムをたっぷり塗り、ジャムサンドイッチを作る。それをボウルに入れる。
3. シェリー大さじ４杯を、スポンジケーキ全体に染み込むように、丁寧にかける。そのまましばらくおき、シェリーをスポンジケーキに染み込ませる。
4. カスタードを作る。カスタードパウダーを鍋に入れ、牛乳を入れる。少し強めの弱火にかけ、沸騰するまでよくかき混ぜる。砂糖とバニラエッセンスを加える。弱火で１〜２分沸騰させたら火からおろし、室温に冷めるまで置いておく。
5. カスタードが冷めたら、ケーキにかける。ラップでカバーをし、冷蔵庫で冷やす。
6. カスタードが完全に冷めたら、ボウルにホイップクリームと砂糖を入れ泡立てる。
7. カスタードの上に泡立てたホイップクリームを絞り出す。
8. チェリーとアーモンドスライスで飾り付けをして出来上がり。
Background:
This recipe was presented by Reginald Foort, a prominent BBC organist at that time, for Anthology of Puddings (1942) by Irene Veal.
He wrote as follows: “My favourite pudding is a trifle. I can’t give you the technical details in the style of Mrs. Beeton, but: Take a lot of not-too-stale sponge cakes; split in half longwise, add a lot of jam – preferably strawberry – and make them into a jam sandwich. Place in a deep glass dish and more or less soak with sherry. Then pour over lots of custard, allow to set, pour lots of whipped cream over; and decorate the top with lots of white skinned almonds and some cherries. Stick in the refrigerator to cool until served.”
I borrowed the custard recipe from Handed Down Kitchen Youtube video, which used The Manual of Modern Cookery (7th Edition, published in 1943) for the reference.
Eggs were rationed in June 1941, so unless you are lucky enough to be able to keep hens, making fresh custard was a bit tricky. It was, therefore, handy to have custard powder. Bird’s Custard powder was invented in 1837 by Alfred Bird, a chemist from Birmingham, for his wife who was intolerant to wheat and eggs. He used cornstarch and colouring instead. By 1945, custard powder became scarce. The issue was raised in the parliament on 18 April 1946 and Benjamin Smith, then Minister of Food, replied that there was a general shortage throughout the country due to a serious shortage of starch.
The feature of this wartime trifle is lack of jelly. Traditional jelly layer was replaced by jam. I could not find out when the rationing of jellies started, but it was stopped in May 1950. I have been researching the reason behind the shortage and found some clues. Firstly, many gelatine factories on the continent were destroyed in bombing raids, hitting the supply hard. Meanwhile, its demand increased: Gelatine was not only used for food, but also in photography. The expansion of use of photography in war is apparent from the fact that British Army formed Army Film and Photographic Unit in 1941. It was also used in medicine; By 1940, gelatine sponges were commonly used to stop bleeding. It can benefit from further research but my guess is that combination of bombing in gelatine factories in Europe, increased military use of photography, and its wider application in medicine led to gelatine shortage toward the end of the war.
Jam was actually rationed in March 1941, but it was relatively easy to make if you had an access to fruits in your garden/allotment and in the wild.
As for cherries, they could use glace cherries instead. Glace cherries were imported from France, however, during the war, the manufacture was completely ceased. Therefore, I am not sure how much they were available in the market.
Process:
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| Ingredients. 材料 |
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Slice the cake and spread jam. ケーキをスライスしてジャムを塗る |
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|
Place the cake pieces in the bowl and add sherry. ケーキをボウルに入れ、シェリーをかける |
 |
|
Make custard. カスタードを作る
|
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Pour the custard over the cake. ケーキの上にカスタードをのせる |
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Once custard is completely cool, whip cream and pipe the cream on the custard. カスタードが完全に冷えたら、ホイップクリームを作り、カスタードの上にクリームを絞り出す |
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Decorate with cherries and almond. チェリーとアーモンドで飾り付け |
Verdict:
I used a store-bought cake. It is cheating, I know. You are supposed to use leftover cake, but I did not have any. As for cherries I used frozen ones, as I have them at home.
It was a very nice
pudding. The jam makes it richer and heavier than ordinary trifle and
it was satisfying. Still, I wouldn't be able to gobble this one up in the way I would with the ones with jelly.
これは当時のBBCのオルガニストReginald Foortが『Anthology of Puddings』（1942年）のために提出したレシピです。カスタードのレシピはHanded Down Kitchenから拝借しました。
本来ならばケーキも焼くべきなのですが、あまりものを使うことが前提なので省略しました。チェリーは家にあった冷凍物を使いました。グラッセチェリーを使ってもいいですが、これはフランスからの輸入もので、戦時中は生産が一切停止されていましたから、どれだけ手に入ったか不明です。
通常トライフルにはゼリーも入っているのですが、この戦時中のレシピでは入っていません。当時ゼリーも配給されていました。ヨーロッパのゼラチン工場が戦火で焼けてしまい、供給が減ったこと。そしてゼラチンは食べ物だけでなく、写真や止血にも使われていたため、需要が増えたからではないかと思います。
今回カスタードパウダーを使用していますが、これは卵も1941年から配給されていたからです。カスタードパウダーは19世紀にイギリス人化学者によって発明されました。奥様が卵と小麦粉のアレルギーがあったからだそうです。そのかわりに澱粉が使われています。もちろん、カスタードパウダーが入手できなければ、普通のカスタードをお使いください。
ジャムも1941年から配給されていましたが、 庭や菜園や自然のフルーツが手に入れば、ジャムをつくるのは比較的簡単でした。
通常のトライフルよりも甘くこってりはしていますが、ゼリーなしでも美味しかったです。ただし、私はトライフルが大好きなので、ゼリーの入ったトライフルはいくらでも食べられますが、これは一度に沢山は食べれないと思いました。
Bibliography:
Bureau of International Commerce,1948, Foreign Commerce Weekly, Vol. 32 (Digitized 25 November 2019)
National Memorial Arboretum, Second World War Rationing leaflet
Sabberi, Helen and Davidson, Alan, 2001, Trifle (Prospect Books)
Webb, Andrew, 2012, Food Britannia (Random House)
BBC, WW2 People’s War, contributed by Ralph W. Hill
https://www.bbc.co.uk/history/ww2peopleswar/stories/84/a4537884.shtml
Gelatine Manufacturers of Europé website
https://www.gelatine.org/en/gelatine/history.html
Handed Down Kitchen, ‘A Traditional Trifle 1940s/WW2 Era Recipe’
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDKoD2nwOSc
Imperial War Museum website
Rousselot, ’From cave-dweller concoctions to global best sellers: A brief history of gelatin’ on Darling Ingredients website
https://www.darlingii.com/nl-NL/media/blogs/rousselot-a-brief-history-of-gelatin-manufacturing
UK Parliament
https://api.parliament.uk/historic-hansard/commons/1946/apr/18/custard-powder-shortage
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