20. Mince-in-the-hole 穴の中のひき肉

Ingredients:

112g mince, fresh or cooked

1 leek chopped finely

1 teaspoon mixed herbs

Salt and pepper

Fat

 

<Batter>

112g flour

1 egg and milk + water to make up 275ml

2 level teaspoons baking powder

Salt and pepper

 

ひき肉 112g

ネギのみじん切り 1 本分

ミックスハーブ 小さじ1

塩胡椒

 

<バッター生地r>

小麦粉 112g

1 個と牛乳と水を合わせて275mlにする

ベーキングパウダー 小さじすりきり2

塩胡椒

 

Instructions:

1.     Preheat the oven to 200C/180C fan.

2.     Grease a baking pan and heat it in the oven.

3.     Mix mince, leek, herbs and seasoning together and form into balls.

4.     Put the meat balls in the baking pan and heat them in the oven (10~15 minutes).

5.     Make the batter. Whisk really well.

6.     Pour the batter over the balls.

7.     Bake in an oven for 30-40 minutes.

8.     Serve with gravy, potatoes, and green vegetable.

 

1.     オーブンを200℃(コンベクションオーブンの場合は180℃)に予熱する

2.     焼き型に油を塗り、オーブンで熱する。

3.     ひき肉、ネギ、ハーブを混ぜて塩胡椒し、ミートボールを作る。

4.     ミートボールを熱した型に入れ、1015分焼く。

5.     生地を作る。泡立て器でよく混ぜる。

6.     生地をミートボールの型に流し入れる。

7.     3040分焼く。

8.     グレービーをかけ、ジャガイモと野菜を添えてできあがり。

 

Background:

This is a recipe from the Ministry of Food’s Making the Most of the Meat booklet. Obviously as this is a variation of Toad in the Hole, I chose pork for the meat. My research, however, has found that pork would not be the meat of the choice during the World War 2 as I explain below.

Fresh meat was rationed since 11th March 1940. As shipping became problematic, the amount of imported meat was reduced, and the space for animal feed was taken over by human food. In addition to the lack of imported feedstuff, crops and milk production were prioritised over meat production, which led to a huge reduction of pig population in the UK. In 1943, the number of pigs was 1.8 million, down from 4.4 million before the war.

Pork was more expensive than beef or mutton/lamb. It is because pork was scarce, as pigs were used predominantly for bacon.

To supplement meat rations, people started to form a Pig Club to buy and keep pigs together. Each member contributed money and helped the upkeep of the animals. They fed the animals food scraps from home and restaurants as well as small rations of feed or corn allowed for such groups. Although members had to give up their right to a bacon ration in return for feedstuff, much larger meat yield from the animals they kept would make it worthwhile.

One group near Newcastle had about thirty members and they had forty to fifty pigs. About ten pigs were slaughtered at any one time. Half of the carcasses were sold to the government to help with the rationing, and the rest were divided between the members.

No Pig Clubs existed before the war, however, by 1941, there were 735 of them and 15,316 pigs were in their care. The numbers increased to 6,900 clubs with 142,000 pigs in 1944-45. In the last year of the war, roughly 10% of the pig-meat output was produced on holdings of less than one acre.


Process:

Ingredients 材料

 
Make meatballs ミートボールを作る

Place meatballs on the pan and bake in the oven ミートボールを型に入れてオーブンで焼く

Make the batter 生地を作る

 

Pour the batter in the pan and bake 生地を型に流し込んで焼く


Mince-in-the-hole 出来上がり
 

Verdict:

I tried this recipe three times because the batter did not puff up as much as I thought it would like Yorkshire pudding. I chilled the batter (suggested by my dear friend Michele) and heated the pan really really hot before cooking. I made sure the batter was whipped very well.

After three attempts, I came to the conclusion that it just won’t puff up. As it is basically Toad in the Hole, I looked around the recipes and realised that they use multiple eggs. This recipe uses only one. In fact the original recipe uses powdered egg, so the chances of it puffing up was closer to nil. That is the reason why this recipe uses baking powder, but even so, it won’t puff up as much. If you manage to make it puffy, please let me know what I did wrong.

It does not specify which meat to use, but I used pork for ours. As the recipe uses a small amount of meat, it was difficult to make meatballs. There were far too much leak to the meat. Still, with the batter and potatoes, it is extremely filling.

The taste is nice, although it requires gravy. I will use two eggs next time so I will get the real Toad in the Hole experience. Having said that, it must have been an ultimate comfort food during the war.

 

実はこれは3回作ってみました。というのも、生地がヨークシャープディングのようにふっくらすると思ったからです。焼く前の生地を冷やしたり、型を熱したり、生地を長く泡立てたり、いろいろとやってみましたが、結果は同じでした。そこで、気がついたのです。ヨークシャープディングのようには膨らまないのだと。

これはトード・イン・ザ・ホール(穴の中のヒキガエル)という名のイギリス料理のアレンジです。ちなみにヒキガエル料理ではありません。ミートボールの代わりにソーセージを入れて焼いた物です。調べてみたところ、通常この料理には卵を23個使っているのです。

戦時中レシピを見ると、卵は粉状のドライエッグなので、絶対に膨らむはずはなく、なのでベーキングパウダーを加えているのですが、それでもやはりあまり膨らみません。でも戦時中にはそんな贅沢は言ってられません。

ミートボールはどの肉を使ってもいいです。私はトード・イン・ザ・ホールが頭にあったので豚肉にしましたが、実はイギリスでは戦時中に一番手に入りにくい肉は豚肉だったのです。というのも、船舶輸送が難しくなったために、肉の輸入が減り、しかも動物用の飼料の輸入を大幅に減らし、国内では豚の飼育よりも、穀物栽培や牛乳や卵を生産する牛や鶏の方が優先されたからです。

お味的にはグレービーが必要ですが、美味しいです。素朴なイギリス的家庭料理の味です。でも、ヨークシャープディングのように膨らんだ生地にしたければ、卵をもう一つ加えてみるといいのではないかと思います。私はまだ試しておりませんが…。

 

Bibliography:

Brassley, Paul, “Pig clubs and backyard chickens: the significance of household producers in Britain in the Second World War”, Agricultural History Review 66 I, pp.93-111

The Ministry of Food, 1944, Food Consumption Levels in the United States, Canada and the United Kingdom (His Majesty’s Stationery Office, London)

The Ministry of Food, 1946, How Britain was Fed in War Time: Food Control 1939-1945 (His Majesty’s Stationery Office, London)

The Ministry of Food, 1943, Making Most of the Meat (The Ministry of Food)

The Ministry of Food, 1951, The Urban Working-Class Household Diet 1940 to 1949: First Report of the National Food Survey Committee (His Majesty’s Stationery Office, London)

BBC, WW2 People’s War, contributed by newcastlecsv, “Pig Clubs, supplementing Meat Rations” available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/history/ww2peopleswar/stories/89/a4464489.shtml


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