Ingredients:
225g stale bread
50g suet or margarine
50g sugar
½ -1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
pinch mixed spice
1 - 2 Tablespoon marmalade
75-100g mixed dried fruit*
1 egg
little milk
NB: *The dried fruit could be all of one kind or a mixture of fruits; chopped, soaked, but not cooked, dried prunes give a good flavour.
古くなったパン 225g
スエットまたはマーガリン 50g
砂糖 50g
ナツメグ 小さじ½〜1
ミクストスパイス ひとつまみ
マーマレード 大さじ１〜２
ドライフルーツ* 75-100g
卵 １個
牛乳 少量
*ドライフルーツは一種類でも何種類か混ぜても良い。刻み、水につけて戻しておく。火は通さないこと。プルーンはいい味を出すのでおすすめ。
Instructions:
1. Pre-heat the oven to 180C/160C fan.
2. Break the bread into small pieces and put into a basin, add enough cold water to cover. Leave for 30minutes.
3. Squeeze the bread hard to extract any surplus moisture.
4. Put the bread into a basin, add the rest of the ingredients.
5. Add just enough milk to make a sticky consistency.
6. Grease 18cm cake tin and put in the mixture, and bake for 1 hour or until firm.
7. Cool in the tin then cut into squares and top with a little sugar before serving.
1. オーブンを190℃（コンベクションオーブンの場合は170℃）に予熱する。
2. パンを細かくちぎり、ボウルに入れ、パンがかぶるぐらいの水を加えて30分おく。
3. パンをしっかり絞って水気を切る。
4. パンをボウルに入れ、他の材料を全て加えて混ぜる。
5. ベトベトになるくらいに牛乳を加えて混ぜる。
6. マーガリンを塗った18cmのケーキ型に生地を入れ、オーブンで１時間か中まで焼けるまで焼く。
7. 型に入れたまま冷まし、お好きなサイズに切って、食べる前に少量の砂糖をふる。
Background:
This recipe is from the Victory Cookbook by Marguerite Patten, who worked for Ministry of Food during the war.
Bread was not rationed during the wartime, but after the war in July 1946.
Up to 1939, nine-tenths of cereals and flour were imported, mainly from Canada, Australia, and Argentina. However, throughout 1941, Britain experienced severe shipping losses. To counter the problem, production of domestic wheat was increased, from c.1,650 tons before the war to over 3,000 tons in 1944.
In the meantime, in order to save shipping space, the Ministry raised the extraction rate of flour – the percentage by weight that is extracted from the whole grain to make flour – from the pre-war 70% to 75% in the spring of 1941, and to 85% in March 1942. White flour of 75% extraction was freely available before March 1942, but by June 1942, it could no longer be obtained.
This 85% extraction flour was called ‘national wheatmeal’. It was milled to contain as much of the germ and aleurone layer as possible to have high nutritious value.
National Wheatmeal Bread, or National Loaf, was introduced in October 1941. It was made from national wheatmeal, oil and/or fat, water, salt, yeast or improvers of the nature of yeast food, and nothing else. According to the Common’s debate on 10 February 1942, although about 27,000 bakers were licensed in the UK, there was no standard baking method. By October 1942, small additions of barley and oat flour to the National Wheatmeal loaf have been announced and by 1943, imported white flour, rye, milk powder and calcium were permitted as the ingredients.
People commonly ate white bread before and early years of the war. Until National Wheatmeal bread became general, brown bread represented about 8% of the total purchase of bread of the household surveyed.
Brown bread was rarely, if ever, baked at home. The increase in bread purchase which took place during the early years of the war was accompanied by a decline in flour sale for domestic use. The use of flour seems to have declined even while white flour was still obtainable, probably because more women went into employment and the shortage of fats and sugar made the home baking more challenging. The price also seemed to be a factor. The price of flour went up, while that of bread decreased.
The Wholemeal National Loaf “was mushy and grey in colour. All bread sold was one day old, by ORDER [sic]. This was easier to cut into really thin slices, and because the smell of newly baked bread encouraged people to eat more when it was fresh.” It sounds truly unappetising!
Bread pudding using stale bread was a perfect example of ‘Waste not, Want not’ recipes.
Process:
Ingredients 材料
Tear the bread パンをちぎる
Soak the bread in water, and squeeze the water out パンを水に浸し、絞る
Add all the other ingredients 残りの材料を加える
Mix all the ingredients 材料を混ぜる
Put the mixture in the tin and bake 型に入れてオーブンで焼く
Bread pudding! できあがり
Verdict:
We have a family recipe for a bread pudding, which is my go-to recipe to use up stale bread. I used our usual seeded bread. Obviously any bread will do, and a modern bread pudding would be a huge improvement from the one using the wartime National Wheatmeal Bread.
Since I was not used to using suet, I always replace it with butter. Interestingly, DH instantly related this wartime bread pudding with the one he ate as a child. Perhaps butter changes the texture, while it makes the pudding richer. The taste of suet became more prominent when it was cold.
I used currants, sultanas, and raisin as in the family recipe to compare.
In comparison, this wartime recipe uses half the amount of dried fruits, and 2/3 sugar. It does not use cinnamon, but instead uses marmalade. I usually soak the bread with milk and do not squeeze the moisture out. In other words, this recipe uses less fruits, sugar, milk, and spice.
Despite all that, the taste was not that different from our usual one. I think marmalade is the key, adding depth of flavour and sweetness. If anything, this wartime pudding is sweeter because of that.
イギリスでは戦時中、パンは配給制ではありませんでしたが、小麦の大部分を輸入に頼っていたので、小麦の国内生産量を増やした他、貴重な輸入小麦を最大限に活用するために、1943年には白パンの販売が停止され、胚芽やアリューロン層を残して製粉した「ナショナル小麦全粒粉」を使った「ナショナル・ローフ」にとってかわられました。これはぐにゃぐにゃしており、灰色で、命令により焼いた次の日のものしか買うことができなかったそうです。というのも、1日経ったパンは固くて薄くスライスしやすく、焼きたてのパンは香りがいいので沢山食べてしまうので、それを防ぐためだからだそうです。
ブレッドプティングは古くなったパンを使うレシピのため、貴重なパンを無駄なく使い切ることができます。
通常作る義母のブレッドプディングのレシピと比べて、この戦時レシピはドライフルーツも、砂糖も、牛乳も、スパイスも使う量が少ないです。また、シナモンなどのスパイスの代わりに、マーマレードを使います。マーマレードのおかげで味に深みが出て、甘味も出ています。実際、通常作るものよりも甘く感じました。
どんなパンを使ってもいいのですが、現在のブレッドプディングは、「ナショナル・ローフ」で作った当時のブレッドプディングよりもずっとおいしいでしょう。
Bibliography:
Imperial War Museum, ‘What You Need to Know About Rationing in the Second World War’, Imperial Museum website
Kellett, Celia, Food Rationing at the Master’s House 1939-1954 (The Master’s House exhibition booklet)
Ministry of Food, 1946, How Britain was Fed in War Time: Food Control 1939-1945 (His Majesty’s Stationery Office, London)
Ministry of Food, 1951, The Urban Working-Class Household Diet 1940 to 1949: First Report of the National Food Survey Committee (His Majesty’s Stationery Office, London)
Patten, Marguerite, 1995, The Victory Cookbook (Hamlyn)
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